Fun Times for Cow

Posted on June 9, 2013 by Alan Stock

The jutting outcrop we climbed up in the morning. This photo was taken at sunset a following day.

Day 82 – Location: Karmidanda Village, Langtang Region; Nepal

22/11/12

I got up at 7am as Awijit, Jhabraj’s 15 year-old son, was taking me up to a viewpoint above Karmidanda. He’d already been up for hours as he attends an early morning karate class in the village. Every morning at 5am through the gap in the roof I hear his buddies walking to the karate class along the path by the house. After a quick cup of masala tea we set off up the hillside through the village, over the dirt road and up a steep path through the rocks and grass. It took about twenty minutes to climb a path which lead to a big rocky spire, a sheer cliff on one side. We clambered up big slabs of rock, hopped over a crevasse and zig-zagged up a steep path to the summit of the spire. On the way we saw a monkey (I think it was a macaque) perched above us on a rock, but he ran off when we got closer. From this grassy hilltop we had a 360 degree view. It was peaceful, the only sounds were birds and the wind. On the valley hillside in the distance the remains of a huge landslide was perilously close to a village hugging the steep hillside. Why you would choose to live in these landslide-prone locations is a mystery to me (Jhabraj’s village is on flatter terrain). Half of the valley was in shadow as the sun was still low. The white capped Himalaya at the top of the valley shone brightly in the sun. Low cloud hung over the valley in the distance tens of kilometers away in the other direction.

The mighty shadow cast by the ridge behind us. The Himalaya can be seen in the distance. It is hard to convey the massive sense of scale here but it is possible to make out houses on the other side of the valley near the cliffs.

The mighty shadow cast by the ridge behind us. The Himalaya can be seen in the distance. It is hard to convey the sense of scale here but it is possible to make out houses on the other side of the valley near the cliffs.

The valley dissolves into clouds. The winding dirt road is fairly recent. Many of the villagers don’t have their own transport so the new bus service that comes through the villages heading towards Kathmandu is a big step forward for these communities.

We saw villagers on paths below carrying bundles of grass for their animals on their backs. We sat for a while soaking up the atmosphere and then headed back down, passing the local bus to Kathmandu which was winding down the hairpins of the dirt road, kicking up big plumes of dust. Children waved to us from the top of a huge rock above.

Villagers carry grass on their backs past the millet fields

We ran into some villagers on the way down and helped them to carry some seriously heavy bags of potatoes to a house.

Awijit and his friend struggle to carry the potatoes, I lent a hand too

Back at the Neupane household we had breakfast (with cups of hot, fresh milk) and Jhabraj and Sophie left for school. I’d offered to help the family out with anything they needed doing, and was tasked with cutting millet which was ready for harvest in one of the long, thin terrace fields below the house. Januka showed me the basics and left me to it. I had a small sickle and a big wicker basket for putting the millet in. I just had to cut the head of the millet off the stalk, nicking it with the inner curve of the sickle. The millet head is about a finger-length long and contains lots of small round seeds . In Nepal they use it for making flour or brewing rakshi (whiskey). It was hot work but I got into a rhythm and let my mind wander. I had plenty of sun lotion on and wore a cloth bag on my head as it was so hot out of the shade. I practiced some Nepali language, having brought my notebook of translations with me. After half an hour I wasn’t concentrating and accidentally sliced my thumb knuckle. There was a lot of blood so without any first aid kit to hand, I washed it with water from my bottle, and wrapped my camera lens cloth around my thumb tightly, using a strong millet stalk to tie it in place, and carried on working.

My millet field. You can see the sees heads about half way up – I cleared the first section (even that took over an hour)

After about three and a half hours of sweaty work I’d managed to fill the basket and had cleared a third of the field. The tricky parts were when the plants had been flattened, forcing me to bend down and rummage around to find the seed heads – a killer for my back and neck. Januka appeared and seemed happy with the progress I’d made. Later that afternoon a visiting local woman told me I’d been very fast to collect that much millet in that time, especially on my first attempt – quite a compliment!

We had some lunch (eggs and noodles) and Sophie and Jhabraj arrived. Sophie had experienced problems with her chaotic year 3’s, but her year 6’s had been good. One of the Neupane cows had been mooing incessantly all day, meaning she was ready to mate, she mooing for a bull. That afternoon a guy I shall inappropriately dub “cowsex man” came by. Jhabraj had called him in to artificially inseminate the cow, using bull sperm from India, which should make for a very productive (in milk) calf. Some of Jhabraj’s neighbours came over to help out.

First they cordoned off the cow in the shed using bamboo poles as a makeshift fence. Then cowsex man stripped to his vest and put a one arm inside a plastic sleeve. As the others soothed and held the distressed cow, he then went through the gruesome task (look away now, prudish readers!) of shoving his arm into her bumhole and pulling out all the poo inside! There was a lot of it and it went everywhere! I stood well back to avoid getting a smelly splatter! Amazingly the cow wasn’t too bothered, maybe she even liked it? Then cowsex man took off the plastic sleeve from his arm, and opened a metal cylindrinal container which smoked with nitrous oxide when the lid came off. It contained long straws with plungers for the insemination, and shorter tubes containing the frozen sperm. The whole thing reminded me of the dino DNA canisters in Jurassic Park (clever girl…).

Cowsex man opens his stash, holding the insemination straw inbetween his teeth.

Cowsex man insterted a sperm tube into a long insemination straw and broke off the end. Then he put one hand up the cows bum (no plastic cover this time!) and started to sexually stimulate her with that hand, whilst with the other he inserted the long straw into her vagina, moving it around. The cow was shifting around uncomfortably but didn’t cause any trouble. After a few minutes of this the guy pushed the plunger on the straw, the sperm was injected into her vagina and that was that. Then cowsex man sat beside the cow and looked off into space whilst he smoked a cigarette, his monologue voiceover playing in the background (this might not have actually happened).

As ox bulls have a lot of sperm, cowsex man wanted to do it again to make certain the cow would get pregnant, so the insemination process was repeated. Then he washed and chatted with the others before leaving. Jhabraj’s cost for the insemination was only 500 rupees (about 5 British pounds) plus a bottle of homemade rakshi! Not bad considering he should get a productive calf out of it.

Sexy cow insemination action, haha! Cowsex man stimulates the cow with one hand whilst the other inserts the sperm using the straw.

At dinnertime one of Jhabraj’s friends arrived with a bulging bag, which contained a very fat and very alive white chicken. Its time was up – Jhabraj and his friend were going to share its meat. They asked if me and Sophie would like to kill it but we politely declined. They took it round the back to a chopping block and lopped off its head with a cleaver. Sophie said the legs did move around, this is where the English saying “running around like a headless chicken” comes from. Then Jhabraj’s friend put the body in a big bowl of hot water and washed it, it makes the feathers easier to pluck – which was what he did next. The plucked chicken was set down on the chopping block, and brilliantly the light behind it cast a huge shadow cast of two sticking-up claws across the yard! Then Jhabraj chopped it up and made chicken curry. I helped by peeling the garlic, a staple ingredient of a lot of these local dishes. The curry was pretty good and the meat tender.

After dinner me, Sophie and Jhabraj stayed up late chatting. Jhabraj told us about the latest in the school caretaker saga, the woman who’d been beaten up. Today a load of her neighbours had arrived at the school demanding a meeting with the teachers. In the meeting they’d ranted at the staff demanding that the woman be fired for her behavior with other men, despite the fact she’d been a victim. Jhabraj said they were jealous of her free life – free to choose men she wanted, who often gave her money and bought her presents, which made her wealthier than her neigbours. Bear in mind that most other women out here are locked in arranged marriages and lead a much more restricted lifestyle. Jhabraj took a stand – persuading the other teachers not to be reactionary and take any action against her, her private life is her business. Quite right. The neighbours still demanded that if the police investigation found she’d been lying then she should be fired. Jhabraj despaired to us about her neighbour’s jealously and their lack of feeling – it’s her lifestyle choice and she and her family had been attacked! He said it would be a great injustice if she was to be fired for this reason. They’d had to consent to have another meeting on the subject next week.

Awikjit plays with another of our regular visitors, a little girl from a nearby house who is very curious about us westerners living here! She’s also one of the girls who wanders the school during the day with nowhere else to go.

We also discussed how to deal with Sophie’s problem class (the year 3’s), and Jhabraj told us about his history of teaching. At the start of his career with he was very shy, but over the years he has become very well respected by students, and has worked out how to deal with unruly students in non-violent ways. Many of his students have gone onto get prestigious jobs – they still remember him as adults and thank him for his help. He’s clearly a very good teacher. We also talked about his standing in the community, as everyone comes to him for advice and asks him to mediate for them. Even so he still earns a basic wage and struggles to support his daughters who are in further education. Although he appreciates the respect he holds and is very happy to be helping people, at the same time it’s a big burden, having to deal with everyone’s problems, not to mention caring for his own family. Of course it’s a vicous circle, he’s so honest, fair and impartial with his advice that his reputation has spread to other villages in the area and more and more people come to him for help.

Next year local elections should start again (there have been no local governing posts since the latest government came into power), and he should definitely be able to apply for a role similar to mayor – something I have no doubt he would be great at. We talked about many other things that night but I was left amazed at all the things that Jhabraj has done for his community and his life achievements, especially considering his difficult circumstances and poor background. An truly inspirational man!

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Would you like to stay in Karmidanda village with the Neupane family? Read on…

Jhabraj

If you are thinking of viisting Nepal and would like to do a homestay with Jhabraj’s family and see his village, or you need an experienced trekking or private tour guide, Jhabraj is very happy to accommodate you. He can do tours anywhere around Nepal and for trekking, he is very experienced and a safe, responsible guide, having guided on all the major Nepali treks multiple times as a guide (including the popular Everest, Annapurna and Langtang treks). It is also possible to do some spectacular trekking in the Langtang area from his village area so you could always combine a homestay with a trek. Jabraj charges very reasonable prices, he speaks good English, and you couldn’t meet a friendlier, more interesting and hospitable guy! Your enjoyment, satisfaction and safety are his primary concerns. Money that Jhabraj earns from visitors and clients goes towards the higher education of his children, which is extremely expensive for a village family. If you want to hear more, please contact me via this website and I will put you in touch with him. Highly recommended!

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Would you like to help Jabraj’s village community of Karmidanda? Read on…

Like many outlying villages in Nepal, the village Karmidanda is extremely poor and the community has many serious problems as a result. Almost all the families here are in a lot of debt, living on the breadline on the meagre earnings they can eke out – most are farmers. Other avenues of work are simply not available up here and most families cannot afford to put their children into higher education to improve the cycle. Public welfare does not really exist in Nepal and the area only has one health clinic staffed by volunteers and supplied by charity. If a villager requires hospitisation the villagers have to pool together to get enough money to pay for an ambulance to take the patient 5 hours to Kathmandu and also pay the expensive hospital treatment fees, if they can afford it. The village school was built thanks to charitable efforts but staff wages are low, equipment and resources are always scarce and there are not enough teachers for the number of students. These are just some of the problems that the community has – yet despite the difficulties the community spirit is amazing here, people help each other, they have a smile on their face and they are welcoming and friendly. If you think that you can help with donations, volunteering (incuding English teaching at the school) or charitable projects, please get in touch. Jhabraj has many contacts and can direct you to the right people so you know your money or resources are going directly to the local community and no share is going into anyone elses’ pocket. Some charitable efforts have also been started by foreign visitors who have visited Jhabraj and decided to help the community of Karmidanda – please check out the following websites: (links coming soon!)

Nepali Village School Visit

Posted on May 31, 2013 by Alan Stock

Village school kids await Sophie’s instructions

Day 81 – Location: Karmidanda Village, Langtang Region; Nepal

21/11/12

At 5am I woke to the sounds of people walking and talking on the path outside. I was very cold, I hadn’t wrapped up properly in my drug-fuelled condition – my bedroom had a gap between the wall and the roof which let the cold mountain air in. I could still feel the effects of the weed overdose a little bit. I managed to get some restless sleep whilst the rest of the village woke up.

I emerged at 8am feeling tired but otherwise ok and I vowed not to underestimate ganja again! Jhabraj greeted me and told me his drunk colleague from last night had stayed for a while until he eventually made it to a house nearby where he crashed for the night. Jhabraj had already spoken with him and he was in pretty amazing condition considering his state last night! We had tea, fresh curd from the cows and beaten rice for breakfast.

At 10am we set off to the village school, where Jhabraj works as an English teacher. Jhabraj was kitted out in a very sharp pinstripe suit, the teacher uniform for his school. It was Sophie’s first day as a volunteer there. We walked down the hill through the village for about twenty minutes. The mountain villages here are very spread out, clusters of houses and individual buildings speckled over the hillside. We passed kids on their way to school in unforms of varying degrees of decay, most of them said “Namaskar” (a respectful greeting) to Jhabraj. They didn’t seem too interested in me and Sophie – Jhabraj often has foreigners visiting so it’s not a new sight for them here. We crossed the main “road” (dirt track) where there was a van full of small chicken cages. We soon saw the school from above, three or four large white rectangular buildings on a big flat patch of land, flat dusty spaces inbetween. The view over the valley from here was awesome. This school had mainly been built with funds raised from an Italian guy who had stayed for a long time with Jhabraj in the village and with Jhabraj’s persuasion decided to help the community. He had fundraised for years in Italy in local communities and churches and raised a lot of money over the years. The school had started with one classroom and eventually expanded to a full school employing teachers of all subjects. Although compared to western schools it is very basic, and still lacks equipment and funds by Nepali standards it’s good. Quite an achievement by the volunteers and the teachers involved! If you are interested in helping out the students and teachers of Karmidanda’s school with donations or volunteering, please contact me and I can put you in touch with Jhabraj – they are always in need of equipment, staff and funding! (see bottom of post)

Looking down on Karmidanda’s school

We arrived early and met some of the other teachers in the staff room. Their pinstripe suits made it look like we’d accidently walked into a mob meeting! Amusingly, the drunken teacher from last night was there, and just as Jhabraj said, in sobriety he was very quiet and serious looking!

Class started and we went to observe Jhabraj teaching a class of 12 year olds. This school teaches kids aged 6 to 16 – classes are seperated by age. The classroom was like the ones I’d seen with Anja in Besisahar, bare walls with the only furnishings being a whiteboard, wooden bench-desks and open, barred windows. The class wasn’t very full as this was the first day of school after the Tihar festival. The kids all wore uniform although some were dirty or had holes in them. All the kids had exercise books. We sat at the back and watched the 45 minute English lesson. It was a fairly standard lesson, the kids were quite well behaved and Jhabraj didn’t take any crap from them. They learned about tag questions – for example “Rita is a nice girl, isn’t she?” I was impressed with their level of English at this age.

Jhabraj at work

During class me and Sophie got plenty of attention through the back windows from curious kids. Unfortunately because there is no real playground, and no glass in the windows, it’s quite noisy and distracting for kids trying to study in classes. Other kids can peer through the windows and disturb the students – for us this included a very funny buck-toothed 5 year old girl who lives near to Jhabraj. She is too young for school but her family works so she gets sent with her older sister. Whilst her sister is in class, she wanders around and plays. Jhabraj said that it’s quite common for parents to leave their underage kids at the school, so sometimes there are 3 year olds wandering around, pooing everywhere and crying. As Jhabraj explained, it’s hard work and unfair for the teachers to take care of these young kids when they are already working so hard!

Curious kids peeking through at the newcomers in class

After class we had a free period so me and Sophie sat in the sun whilst groups of kids hung around us with great interest. The younger kids were fascinated by a German/English picture book which Sophie brought, left at Jhabraj’s by a previous volunteer. Jhabraj took us to a little store below the school where we drank tea and told us about the latest village drama.

This is not staged, the children were genuinely thrilled with this book!

The school caretaker; a widow from the village with three children, had been beaten up last night by a group of men and women. They even beat up her children! She’d called Jhabraj (as he is a community advisor) and he told her to speak to the police as it was a complicated matter outside of his hands. He’d talked with her eldest daughter who is a student at the school; she had written a detailed report of what happened which they could give to the police. Apparently the reason for the assault was because the mother was having relations with a married man (she is windowed) – to cut a long story short the man’s wife found out and it was a revenge attack – even though her husband was the instigator of the affair! Jhabraj said they would have to see how the situation developed, it was certainly causing a stir in the community.

After break, Sophie went to her first class as a teacher unsupervised. She started well and I took a few photos before I left her to it. I sat in on another of Jhabraj’s lessons, where he went over verbs. During the next break he told us he was disappointed that over 45 days of holiday the class had forgotten a lot of what he’d taught them, and most hadn’t done the homework he’d set them. He gave them a week deadline said there’d be a big punishment if they didn’t do it. Although many teachers physically punish the children (which is pretty normal in Nepal), Jhabraj doesn’t believe in it –when he was a younger teacher he used to, but now realizes the error of his ways. He encourages the other teachers to use non-violent punishments and tries to provide a supportive atmosphere for the students so they aren’t afraid and can trust teachers with their problems.

Boy’s side of Sophie’s first class

Mid-way through the class one of the girls was pulled out, the daughter who had been attacked who I mentioned earlier. She was off to the police station to make her report. Jhabraj had to leave the class early to check on another class, so I was in charge. I went through some more verbs with the students until the end of the period; I have some teaching experience myself.

For the next period I waited in the staff room as Jhabraj’s next class would be in Nepali. Then we were served some instant noodles and tea, and we met Sophie who had got on alright with her two classes – her year 6’s were good students and understood English quite well, but her class 3’s (only 8 years old) were difficult to keep motivated, they were easily distracted and didn’t understand much of what she was saying.

Me and Sophie walked back home. She only has two classes every day so it was only 1pm. The sun was shining brightly as usual. At the house we chilled out, I had a “shower” (brisk!) and we were visited by local kids, of both the goat and human variety! Januka was around doing various chores. Jhabraj arrived back at 4pm. He told me that yesterday he’d spoken privately to the son who wasn’t feeding his old father, and the son had agreed to take better care of him. Jhabraj had checked up on the old man to find his son was indeed keeping to his word, and so thankfully he wouldn’t have to round up a committee to resolve the problem.

Colourful houses near the school, and a goat, of course. They are everywhere!

Awijit, Jhabraj’s son came back from school and Ama (the grandmother) came back and forth with backloads of grass for the animals. After chicken curry with rice we spent the evening in the kitchen by the open fire, chatting, drinking rakshi. Various locals visted to chat with the family. Jhabraj’s brother lives very close and he dropped by. An older man who speaks a bit of English also came round and some mothers came to chat to Januka. Some older visitors came by too. Of course the cheeky boy Jeneet from next door made an appearance as well! It’s a very social community and reminds me a lot of soap operas in our country. Everyone pops around to each other’s house all the time, they share commodities with each other, and they help each other. Jhabraj reminds me of Helen Daniels, an old character from Aussie soap “Neighbours” – solving all the social problems of the village!

Another nice sunset over the village

I tried to check my internet on Jhabraj’s computer, which has dial-up internet. I haven’t heard the screeches of an old phone modem for many years! Unfortunately it was very slow and couldn’t load Yahoo Mail. It really didn’t like Facebook either. Other pages loaded but very slowly. Still, to get internet at all out here was a surprise! We went to bed pretty early.

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Would you like to stay in Karmidanda village with the Neupane family? Read on…

Jhabraj at home

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Would you like to help Jabraj’s village community of Karmidanda? Read on…

Arriving at my Nepali Village Homestay

Posted on May 22, 2013 by Alan Stock

I’m back! Laptop is fixed. Found good wi-fi in Jakarta, Indonesia. The blog rolls on!

My awesome host Jhabraj, a great man indeed!

Cheeky little villager Jeneet

Day 78 – Location: Kathmandu, Nepal

20/11/12

I left the hotel at 6:30am, wandering through the already busy streets and found a taxi to Machhapuchre bus stand on the outskirts of town, where I met Sophie and Jhabraj. The bus stand was the usual chaotic mix of buses, shouting conductors and roadside sellers combined with clouds of dust. Jhabraj warned us to watch our bags as bag theft is a problem here. One time he had even warned a woman and then shortly afterwards had asked her where her bag was – she had been chatting to a friend and it had literally been stolen from in front of her feet because she was so engrossed in conversation (women!). Bags safe, we boarded a mini bus and started on the 4 hour journey north to Kalikastan. It was full and as usual me and Sophie were the only tourists. The road was narrow and bumpy and we were squashed in the back row with our outlandish westerner legs. We climbed steadily up, not seeing far over the smog of Kathmandu until the next valley when we broke through the smog layer – and the air finally became clear. You could see the pollution haze hovering above Kathmandu. My first thought was “I’ve been breathing that for weeks now”, my second thought was a more excited “when I blow my nose, maybe black goo won’t come out any more!”.

View out the bus window as we descend into the main valley. Himalayas in the distance.

We had great views from the road which meandered along the side of forested hills. From here we could see a great valley with three clumps of snow- capped Himalayas towering over it all, we could see for probably hundreds of miles from here. Terrace farming was dotted around the landscape. We descended the valley hugging the hillside for the next hour, passing through a village where they were drying a load of vegetables, and climbed the other side of the valley. We went through a number of police checkpoints which Jhabraj explained are for them to check the drivers’ licenses. It’s to cut down on the many accidents that happen on this road, as often the bus conductors take over the driving – they have less experience and their mistakes have caused crashes. We zig-zagged around hairpins cimbing up and up, eventually reaching Kalikastan, a small town, around midday. Some other tourists were here setting off on treks in the Langtang area. From here we could see tree-topped ridgelines in all directions but the town obscured the view into the valleys around us.

View down the valley from the path to Karmidanda

We had a quick cup of masala tea whilst the locals ogled us, and then set off with our bags on the short walk to Jhabraj’s village – Karmidanda. We walked along a dirt road and then down a footpath through a pine forest scattered with big flat rocks. It was very alpine. In breaks in the trees was an impressive view far into the valley below; with countryside and terrace farming eventually reaching a turqoise river snaking into the distance. On the other side of the valley were massive cliffs and a green ridgeline, little villages were visible clinging onto the steep hillside. After twenty minutes we emerged from the forest into terraced farmland and a scattering of houses on the hillside, and soon reached Jhabrajs house.

We turned off this dirt road onto a footpath through the woods to reach the village

Jabrjaj’s wife, Januka, and his 15 year old son, Awijit, greeted us. Januka, a warm and cheerful woman in her late 30s speaks a few words of English and Awijit, a lanky lad with his father’s looks, is quite fluent. Januka’s 80 year old mother (they call her “Ama” which means mother) also lives here but she doesn’t speak any English. She looked remarkably good for her age, draped in a tradional shawl and was very active, collecting and carrying big bundles of grass for the animals every day.

Looking down on Jabraj’s house (on the left) as the sun goes down. You can see the front of the yard from here.

The Neupani family house was a traditional style country house, made of stone with wooden beams. It was painted white on the top half, brown on the bottom, and the doors and shutters were wooden and basic. A small, orangey brown dirt yard in front of the house was lined with a low wall and beyond this were trees and terraced fields, looking down onto more houses below, and a view across to the other side of the mighty valley through the trees. A simple kitchen contained an open fireplace, gas stove and cabinets. A small outhouse contained the toilet and the main water supply on its roof – a water tank with hoses leading outside and to the outhouse. This tank is refilled three times a day from the mains. Wooden stairs from the yard led to the covered balcony of the first floor of the house, which had more rooms. The floors in the house had mats but no carpets, but the family had electricity, a TV, and even a computer which could get internet via a dial-up connection. Attached to the house was an open-fronted animal shelter in which two female oxen, an ox calf and a female goat were tied. As Jhabraj called the oxen “cows”, I’ll do the same. Below the shelter was a small patch of land where they grew vegetables.

The animal shelter

Januka (Jabraj’s wife) and her beloved goat kid!

We hung out in the yard for a while. Januka brought us plates of fresh curd (from their cows of course) with dry beaten rice. With added sugar it was a tasty combination, a bit like cereal. A five-year old boy from a nearby house called Jeneet was hanging around. Sophie had told me about him (she has lived in the village for a few weeks now), and said he is quite a character. Today he was wearing a smart suit (already quite dirty) and looked deadly serious and angry, glaring at us. But, occasionally, someone would say or do something that would make him break into a big smile. His facial expressions were hilarious!

This is how Jeneet usually looks…

Or this….

But occasionally you can make him laugh!

The Neupanis also had two goat kids, belonging to the momma goat in the animal shed. They were only three weeks old and were free to “roam” – but by this I mean sprinting around, jumping onto and off anything they could, and even doing acrobatic spins when they were in midair! The boy goat was always chasing his sister and trying to hump her, which seemed to annoy her. She understandably kept trying to get away from him but he never gave up. Only three weeks old and already incestuous sex is on his mind! They were brilliant fun to watch and constantly made us laugh, running all over the place, knocking over things, falling over and generally causing havok!

Naughty, naughty goats! Get off that mat!

Jhabraj took me on a walk through part of the village. Most of the houses were similar to his. We passed locals, said hello, and Jhabraj would chat to his neighbours. We walked past a small rice mill – (they had a posh colourful modern-style Nepali house because they were wealthy) and a few houses surrounded by thin terraced fields, then a little carpenters who were buzzing away, to a spot where we met a dirt road under a big bamboo tree. From here we could see up and down the big valley, a snowy peak and ridge at the top, and steep angular hills descending to the winding river far below. The hills were completely covered in terrace farming on ridiclously steep inclines. Some went right to the cliff edge. A man passed us carrying two big tree trunks on his back, going to the carpenters. They looked really heavy!

Hauling tree trunks

We walked back down to a house where there a group was hanging out in the yard. One lady was lying down, covered by a blanket and her leg was in plaster. A few days ago she’d been hit on the head by a tree being felled, she’d been badly concussed and broken her leg. She’d had to be taken by ambulance to Kathmandu where they treated her. They’d let her out but she still had pain along one side of her body. Some adults were peeling a big pile of garlic cloves. Jhabraj chatted to them and we were offered a cup of rakshi, Nepali homebrew millet whiskey. It wasn’t bad and we stayed for another cup. I could only smile and nod as Jhabraj explained who I was, not many of the villagers speak much English.

Hanging out with a village family. They are peeling garlic on the right, the injured woman is on the left.

On the way back to the house we ran into an old man stooped over with a cane, who spoke concernedly to my host. Jhabraj explained this was the father of the man who’d carried the logs earlier. He was pleading with Jhabraj to have words with his son (who must be over 40), because he has no other family – his son is his sole supporter. Last night and all of today he hadn’t eaten anything, normally his son prepares food for him but he’d been off drinking and only made food for himself! Jhabraj told me the son is a bit of an alcoholic and they’ve had the same problem with this guy before. Jhabraj is a volunteer social worker for the community and is very well respected in the village – if there’s a problem people always come to him for advice or ask him to mediate for disputes. People even come from other villages because of his reputation for solving people problems. Jhabraj said he’d get together with some other village members and decide what to do about the son neglecting his father. All is not rosy in this peaceful village after all!

Sophie in her favourite spot to catch the evening sun!

Sophie in her favourite spot to catch the late afternoon sun!

We chilled out in the yard for the rest of the afternoon. Sophie took a shower whilst it was still warm. They don’t have a proper shower so it’s a case of standing under a hose spouting out cold water. The sun is hot up here every day so it’s good to wash whilst it’s light, the water warms up slightly in the tank, and you get a chance to warm up outside afterwards. As the sun started going down I went for a walk with my camera to the viewpoint we’d been to earlier. I then realized I’d brought my tripod but not the attachment for the camera to fix to it. Oops. So some handheld sunset shots would have to do. Every evening there is a great sunset here – everything is bathed in orange light and the hills are silhouetted on the other side of the valley, individual trees outlines can be seen lined along the ridge-tops.

Back at the house we sat and ate dahl bhat followed by a cup of hot milk. Me and Jhabraj had cups of rakshi. He doesn’t make it himself but he takes millet from his fields to his neighbours’ house who have the necessary equipment to create it. It’s made by boiling the crop, leaving it to ferment, and then boiling it again. The evaporation is caught by a covering and then it drips down into a bowl to give the finished product. The strength varies depending on how watered down it is, Jhabraj’s batch was medium strength and quite tasty.

Every day there’s a bunch of chores to care for the animals. Jabrjaj’s mother brought two backloads of grass and leaves for their evening meal, and they get the same in the morning. During the day they get water mixed with salt and flour. Jhabraj milks the cows in the morning and evening, and I watched him at work. First he cleaned the udders with water and then used two hands, each milking a teat. Me and Sophie both had a try. It was easy for the first squirt but then there’s a tricky knack to teasing the milk out. Jhabraj was quite rough with it but we saw that was nothing compared to the calfs butting when she was released to get her mum’s milk! Jhabraj was like a machine with his milking. He said that each cow gives between 4-8 litres a day, and his family uses the milk for themselves. The goats eventually be used for meat or sold.

You want fresh milk for breakfast? Gotta get it yourself!

Once it got dark, Jhabraj put the goat kids and the calf into a room in the house, and shut the mother goat in a shed – to protect them from the wild leopards that roam the area. Believe it or not that’s why there’s no dogs in this village, Jhabraj says the leopards kill them! He told me about one time he and Januka were sitting at home, heard a commotion in the shelter, and ran to find a leopard fleeing – in just a few seconds it had torn the throat out of one of their goats! Now they play it safe at night when the predators are active.

As it got dark we stacked on our clothing layers, it gets really cold very quickly. I was glad of my new goosedown jacket! After dinner we sat chatting, and I decided to try some cannibas (or ganja as they call it). The previous tenant had smoked it all the time and had left a chillum (a small pipe) for smoking it. He’d also left some dried marujana plants upstairs. One of Jhabraj’s friends was over and he stripped the seeds off the stem – which pop if you leave them in the mix. I filled the chillum and smoked away. I’ve smoked joints with leaves in the past and from them, been quite stoned. I wasn’t getting any effect from this (normally it takes effect fairly quickly), so over twenty minutes I smoked the whole pipe. This turned out to be a big mistake!

A village house

We had an unexpected visitor. One of Jhabrajs’ colleagues from school (Jhabraj is an English teacher) arrived and immediately we could tell he was completely wasted. He could hardly walk but was very merry and quite twitchy. We all couldn’t stop laughing at him as he tried to converse with us animatedly – he kept apologizing and laughing about his drunken state. Jhabraj told us he sometimes gets like this as he has troubles at home, fortunately he’s a very happy drunk though. It was even more funny because Jhabraj said that in school he is a very serious man who normally doesn’t speak to anyone!

A common sight in the village, villagers lugging grass to feed their animals. They head out into the fields and countryside twice a day to gather this amount. Cows sure eat a lot!

Whilst we were being chatted to by this guy (it wasn’t a conversation!) the ganja started to kick in, mildly at first and then really strong. Everything started spinning! I had space cakes (hash cakes) once in Amsterdam and recognized the signs. I was feeling really stoned and after politely humouring the drunk guy eventually I couldn’t take the sensory input any more and was feeling sick, so I excused myself and went to lie down hoping it would pass after an hour or two, I felt awful. Sophie said later she knew I was really stoned because I was acting so seriously towards the completely absurd drunk guy – in contrast everyone else couldn’t stop laughing at him!

I managed to get into bed and lay there as the world spun around me and my thoughts went all over the place. I’d had way too much and started to get the classic symptoms of a bad trip – paranoia, the shakes, visions and thoughts which start off fine, but somehow always twist into something nasty, and an overwhelming nausea which I was fighting hard to control and not think about (not easy when you’re tripping!). I managed to get up and ask Jhabraj for a bucket in case I was sick. Time slowed to a standstill and I just wanted it to stop or get to the “good” part. When I’d had space cakes the first few hours had been awful, and after that it mellowed out and it was good for a bit. Unfortunately that only happened for a few brief periods this time around, the rest was pretty nasty. I put my iPod on in the hopes that the music would sooth me a bit. It helped a little but only the calmer songs. The nausea started to fade though, and eventually I fell asleep. I’d been tripping for about 4 hours! Next time I’ll have to treat raw ganja with the respect it deserves and know my limits!

Sunset over the terraced fields

Alan Stock Photography

My travelling (mis)adventures. It's ok to cry.

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